Welcome back to the seventh edition of L’Heure Élevée. As we enter 2025, the Year of the Snake, the art of watchmaking reflects the themes of transformation, wisdom, and precision. In the Chinese zodiac, the snake symbolizes adaptability, intelligence, and alluring elegance—traits that align closely with the skill involved in haute horology. Just like a coiled serpent poised to strike, this year’s most striking timepieces encapsulate power and grace, merging ancient symbolism with modern innovation.

For centuries, watchmakers have been inspired by mythology, astrology, and nature, skillfully incorporating these themes into their designs through detailed engravings, luxurious materials, and exquisite complications. The snake, commonly linked to hidden knowledge and quiet strength, serves as an apt muse in a craft that prioritizes precision and artistry. In 2025, top maisons have revealed creations that embody this mystique, showcasing striking aesthetics, serpentine patterns, and engineering innovation that challenge the limits of traditional watchmaking.

The Year of the Snake embodies more than just aesthetics; it symbolizes reinvention. This transformational spirit influences the latest innovations in the industry, extending beyond zodiac-themed timepieces. With a mix of cutting-edge materials and reinvented classics, this year’s releases demonstrate that watchmaking, much like the serpent, continually evolves.

In the seventh edition of L’Heure Élevée, we delve into the interpretations of this ancient symbol by master horologists, as well as other exceptional timepieces shaping the industry. Whether you’re searching for a statement piece rich in mythological significance or a watch that represents performance and tradition, this year’s offerings are sure to impress. Let’s explore the details.

• Brand: Longines
• Model: Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake
• Reference: L1.651.4.09.2
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 10.8 mm
• Material: Stainless steel
• Dial Color: Red Dial
• Calibre: L888.5
• Power Reserve: 72 Hours
• Water Resistance: 5 Bar ( 50 metres, 165 feet )
• Price: USD $3,150

To mark the arrival of 2025, the Year of the Snake, Longines introduces an impressive limited-edition watch that harmonizes tradition, meaning, and skilled craftsmanship. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake transcends being a mere timepiece; it makes a bold statement. Adorned with a rich red dial, this watch reflects the vibrant energy of the snake, an esteemed symbol in Chinese culture for its wisdom, versatility, and subtle strength. Featuring a stylish 40mm stainless steel case with a slim 10.8mm thickness, this watch comfortably fits on the wrist, effectively merging retro elegance with modern design refinement.

The inside features Longines’s Calibre L888.5, a self-winding movement with an impressive 72-hour power reserve. This means you can leave it for a weekend and return to find it still keeping perfect time—a reflection of the snake’s patience and resilience. The vibrant red dial, closely linked to good fortune and prosperity, is enhanced by polished silver-tone hands and indices, presenting a bold yet harmonious look. Additionally, a subtle and intricate serpent motif may be cleverly hidden within the design, making this edition even more special.

With a 5-bar water resistance (50 meters, 165 feet), this watch is perfect for everyday use while still exuding a polished, elegant charm. The black alligator leather strap enhances its sophistication, complementing the timepiece’s classic aesthetic. The Conquest Heritage collection has consistently honoured Longines’ rich history, and this edition introduces a cultural and spiritual significance that appeals not only to collectors but also to those captivated by the snake’s symbolism, the zodiac celebrations, or simply the enchanting deep red dial, which embodies tradition, fortune, and the art of transformation.

• Brand: Longines
• Model: Ultra-Chron Carbon
• Reference: L2.839.4.52.2
• Diameter: 43 mm
• Thickness: 14.4 mm
• Material: Carbon fiber
• Dial Color: Black
• Calibre: L836 (Automatic)
• Power Reserve: 52 Hours
• Water Resistance: 5 bar (50 meters, 165 feet)
• Price: USD $4,900

The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon is a perfect blend of history, technology, and design. This timepiece represents not only Longines’ legacy but also the brand’s progression as a pioneer in high-frequency timekeeping. In 1968, Longines introduced the Ultra-Chron Diver, marking the debut of the first dive watch featuring a high-frequency movement. At that time, Longines was already at the forefront of high-frequency technology, a tradition it continues to uphold today. As early as 1910, the brand introduced the first high-frequency timekeeping device capable of measuring to 1/10th of a second. Then in 1959, Longines created the first high-beat movement for a wristwatch, achieving new levels of accuracy. These early breakthroughs paved the way for the Ultra-Chron Carbon we see now—an impressive timepiece that beautifully blends the past with the present.

Inspired by the 1968 Ultra-Chron Diver, the Ultra-Chron Carbon embodies the aesthetic codes and professional diving features of its predecessor but with a contemporary twist. The watch’s carbon fibre case, measuring 43mm, offers a lightweight yet durable design, perfect for any adventurer seeking a watch that keeps pace with their lifestyle without sacrificing style. The black dial showcases bold markers and hands for easy legibility, whether you’re diving in dark waters or facing everyday challenges. The design captures the essence of professional diving while exuding sophistication and modernity. It’s a true testament to Longines’ ability to honour its legacy while advancing the frontiers of contemporary watchmaking.

Powered by the L836 calibre, a high-frequency automatic movement, the Ultra-Chron Carbon features a 52-hour power reserve that ensures precision and reliability. This movement is chronometer-certified, thanks to its exclusive Longines calibre, which includes a silicon balance spring that enhances resistance to magnetic fields. This makes the Ultra-Chron Carbon not only a beauty to behold but also a powerhouse of precision, making it ideal for anyone who values both form and function. The watch’s durability is complemented by its ability to maintain superior accuracy, regardless of the environment. Its price of USD $4,900 makes it a worthwhile investment for anyone who appreciates high-performance timepieces with a rich legacy of innovation. This is a watch that not only pays tribute to Longines’ pioneering spirit but also invites you to be part of its ongoing journey of excellence.

• Brand: Panerai
• Model: Luminor Tre Giorni
• Reference: PAM01628
• Diameter: 47 mm
• Thickness: 15.1 mm
• Material: Patina Steel
• Dial Color: Shaded Grey
• Calibre: P.3000 (Hand-wound mechanical)
• Power Reserve: 72 Hours
• Water Resistance: 10 Bar (100 meters, 330 feet)
• Price: USD $10,500

The third item on our list, and perhaps my favorite from this collection, is the Panerai Luminor Tre Giorni. This watch isn’t just a timepiece; it’s a celebrated piece of history you can wear. It commands attention with its remarkable presence, featuring a 47mm patina steel case. The distinctive hand-applied patina finish gives each watch a unique character, making it feel like a well-travelled companion eager for new adventures. Panerai’s choice of using patina steel is not merely aesthetic; it pays homage to the brand’s rich history, with its aged appearance reminiscent of the rugged conditions for which these watches were originally designed.

The Luminor Tre Giorni’s shaded grey dial exemplifies the blend of form and function. Bold Arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock stand out prominently, while beige Super-LumiNova markers guarantee excellent visibility in dim lighting. This dial embodies Panerai’s military heritage—initially crafted for Italian Navy divers requiring easily readable watches while navigating through murky waters. A fascinating detail is that Panerai was originally commissioned in the 1930s to produce diving watches for the elite frogmen of the Italian Navy. Their design advancements, including the oversized crown protector and luminous dial, rendered them the ideal instrument for underwater operations. The Luminor Tre Giorni honors this legacy, combining functionality with stylish appeal.

Housed within the watch’s striking exterior is the P.3000 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement that powers the Luminor Tre Giorni. This sturdy movement boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve, ensuring accuracy even after days without wearing it. What makes this movement particularly intriguing is its simplicity and resilience, reflecting the brand’s commitment to designing watches that withstand extreme conditions while showcasing technical excellence. With a transparent case back, the intricate craftsmanship is visible, providing a glimpse into the Panerai legacy that continues to captivate collectors and adventurers alike.

Featuring a dark brown calf leather strap with contrasting beige stitching, the Luminor Tre Giorni beautifully blends vintage charm with contemporary luxury. For those seeking versatility, the black rubber strap provides a robust alternative. Priced at $10,500 USD, the Luminor Tre Giorni is more than just a watch; it’s a glimpse into history and a testament to Panerai’s unwavering dedication to precision, style, and adventure.

• Brand: BALL
• Model: Engineer Master II Ballistic Diver COSC
• Reference: DM3098A-S1J-BK
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 15.5 mm
• Material: Stainless steel
• Dial Color: Black
• Calibre: BALL RR1102-C (Automatic)
• Power Reserve: 42 Hours
• Water Resistance: 30 bar ( 300 metres, 1000 feet)
• Price: USD $2,599 ( Limited Edition 1000 Pieces )

For those seeking unmatched durability and innovative technology, the BALL Engineer Master II Ballistic Diver COSC transcends being just a watch—it’s an essential survival tool. The BALL Watch Company has a rich legacy of crafting watches that endure the harshest conditions. Their reputation for resilience was solidified when a 9mm bullet hit an Engineer Master II Diver worn by a police officer, preventing a potentially fatal injury. This exemplifies the real-world effectiveness that sets BALL apart: timepieces that offer more than just accurate timekeeping, evolving into crucial instruments during urgent situations.

The Engineer Master II Ballistic Diver COSC exemplifies BALL’s steadfast dedication to durability. With only 1,000 units available, this watch is equipped with a range of high-tech features, such as the Amor-tiser, anti-shock system, anti-magnetic protection, and a unique inner bezel that functions underwater—an aspect that divers will find invaluable. Designed for both ocean explorations and harsh conditions, this timepiece is built to endure any challenge.

Visibility is an essential aspect of every diver’s watch, and BALL has enhanced it with an illuminated inner diving bezel and micro gas tubes, guaranteeing excellent legibility even in deep water. With a water resistance of 300 meters (1000 feet) and a robust 42mm stainless steel case, this watch pairs style with durability, making it an ideal companion for adventurers. Its standout feature is the push-and-turn bezel, which enables easy adjustments underwater without sacrificing accuracy.

A standout feature of the BALL Engineer Master II Ballistic Diver is its Amor-tiser® anti-shock system. When the bullet hit the watch, this system effectively absorbed the impact, safeguarding the movement while the case and sapphire crystal endured most of the force. This event highlights the durability of BALL’s watches, designed to withstand severe shocks and keep functioning reliably. The BALL Engineer Master II Ballistic Diver COSC delivers exceptional precision, dependability, and extraordinary toughness, making it ideal for today’s adventurers. Its blend of practical features and classic design transforms this timepiece into more than just a watch; it serves as a resilient shield, designed to endure the challenges of any environment.

• Brand: Arnold & Son
• Model: Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold Year of the Snake
• Reference: 1GBLR.Z09A.C264A
• Diameter: 41.5 mm
• Thickness: 11.67 mm
• Material: 18K Red Gold
• Dial Color: Blue Hand-Painted Snake Motif Dial
• Calibre: A&S1512
• Power Reserve: 90 Hours
• Water Resistance: 3 Bar (30 meters, 100 feet)
• Price: USD $65,000

The fifth on our list is Arnold & Son, which stands out among brands for its mastery of merging artistry, watchmaking, and symbolic design. The Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold “Year of the Snake” exemplifies this legacy, showcasing remarkable craftsmanship alongside a striking homage to the Chinese Zodiac. Made from 18K Red Gold, this limited-edition watch beautifully combines the moon phase complication with a distinctive design that honors the Year of the Snake.

Featuring the A&S 1512 movement at its core, renowned for its exceptional precision and remarkable 90-hour power reserve, this model showcases a stunning moon phase display. This visually captivating aspect is beautifully represented with hand-painted artwork that illustrates the snake, a symbol of wisdom, intuition, and transformation. This enchanting design elevates the watch to a new level, making it more than just a timekeeping instrument—it’s a true piece of art for your wrist.

The blue dial stands out brilliantly against the 18K Red Gold case, establishing a luxurious and visually harmonious look. The lunar complication moves gracefully, mimicking the moon’s own orbit, and combines functionality with beauty by accurately displaying the moon’s phases via a perpetual mechanism that requires adjustment only once every 122 years. Every detail of this watch is remarkable, with each component meticulously designed to convey a narrative of precision and artistry.

An intriguing fact about the Perpetual Moon 41.5 Red Gold is that Arnold & Son genuinely values moon phase complications; they represent more than mere aesthetics; they embody the watchmaker’s dedication to precision. The moon phase display is meticulously crafted for optimal accuracy, thanks to the A&S 1512 movement, which provides exceptional precision in showcasing the moon’s cycles. Furthermore, a patented system guarantees that the display is not only extremely accurate but also visually stunning as it progresses over time.

This limited edition watch, with only 8 pieces produced worldwide, is priced at USD $65,000. It’s more than just a timepiece; it’s a collector’s item that celebrates artistry and honours the lunar cycle. Whether you’re a horological enthusiast or someone who appreciates the blend of craftsmanship and art, this timepiece acts as a statement on your wrist—merging the power of the moon with the elegance of the snake in a stunning design.

• Brand: Hublot
• Model: Spirt Of Big Bang Year Of The Snake
• Reference: 642.CI.0180.RX.CNY25
• Diameter: 42 mm
• Thickness: 14.1 mm
• Material: Black Ceramic
• Dial Color: Sapphire Crystal With Gold-Plated Snake Applique
• Calibre: HUB4700
• Power Reserve: 50 Hours
• Water Resistance: 10 Bar ( 100 meters, 330 feet)
• Price: USD $35,100 ( Limited Edition 88 Pieces )

The final entry on our list is Hublot, which is also honouring the Year of the Snake with a remarkable watch: the Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Snake. Limited to just 88 pieces, this timepiece embodies the key qualities of the Chinese zodiac—wisdom, transformation, and mystery. With its bold and contemporary case design, this exclusive watch combines Hublot’s outstanding craftsmanship with the symbolism of the snake, making it a standout piece for collectors.

The Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Snake showcases a micro-blasted and polished black ceramic case that radiates strength and sophistication, highlighted by the bezel’s engraved snake skin texture. This distinctive detail not only enhances the watch’s visual appeal but also connects it to the inherent charm of the snake. The dial, made from sapphire crystal, features a gold-plated snake applique that gracefully weaves across the surface, symbolizing the snake’s elegance and cunning. The interplay of gold accents and sapphire crystal results in a mesmerizing effect, manipulating light and depth beautifully.

This limited edition features the HUB4700 movement, a self-winding skeleton chronograph that showcases the watch’s detailed mechanical components. With a 50-hour power reserve, this movement ensures reliable performance, while its skeleton style invites the wearer to admire horological craftsmanship from both functional and aesthetic viewpoints. Whether seen from the front or back, the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricately designed movement, highlighting Hublot’s dedication to precision.

Priced at $35,100, this watch features a black rubber strap with a unique snake skin texture, enhancing its luxurious appeal. It includes a deployant buckle clasp made of black ceramic and titanium with a black coating, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. With a water resistance of 100 meters, this timepiece effortlessly shifts from underwater adventures to elegant land-based occasions, exemplifying Hublot’s dedication to luxury, artistry, and technical innovation. This watch not only celebrates the Year of the Snake but also showcases the striking and bold designs for which Hublot is renowned.