Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610/1P-001
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Patek Philippe Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus With New Releases at Watches & Wonders 2026

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Fifty years is a big deal, especially when the watch in question is the Patek Philippe Nautilus. First introduced in 1976, the iconic sports watch reaches its golden anniversary in 2026, and all eyes were naturally on Patek Philippe as the doors opened at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026. The question was never whether the manufacturer would celebrate the occasion, but just how far it would go for a watch that has spent five decades shaping the idea of the elegant luxury sports watch.

The answer arrived with a 2026 collection that goes well beyond a simple birthday celebration. While the Nautilus naturally takes centre stage, Patek Philippe used Watches and Wonders to show a much broader side of the manufacture, moving between traditional watchmaking, technical ambition and a noticeably more adventurous approach to design. There is plenty of colour, a few genuine surprises and enough mechanical creativity to keep even the most serious collectors busy long after the doors in Geneva close.

So, from the Nautilus 50th anniversary celebrations to the rest of the manufacturer’s latest creations, here’s everything Patek Philippe released at Watches and Wonders 2026.

Patek Philippe Releases Overview:

A lot is happening in Patek Philippe’s 2026 collection, but a few releases stood out to us more than others. Before we get into every watch from Watches and Wonders, here are our quick picks from this year’s lineup.

1. Patek Philippe 50 Years of Nautilus – The Anniversary Models

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Nautilus 50 Years Anniversary
  • Reference: 5610-1P / 5810-1G / 5810G / 958G
  • Diameter: 38 mm / 41 mm / 50.65 mm
  • Thickness: 6.9 mm / 13.5 mm
  • Material: Platinum / White Gold
  • Dial: Sunburst Blue/Baguette Diamonds 0.96 CT
  • Calibre: 240 / 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J
  • Power Reserve: 48 / 192 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet) / Humidity & Dust Protected Only
  • Limited Edition: 2000 / 100 Pieces
  • Price: CHF ₣90,000 / CHF ₣75,000 / CHF ₣60,000 / CHF ₣205,000

Fifty years is a big deal for any watch, but when that watch is the Nautilus, you know Patek Philippe isn’t going to let the birthday pass quietly. For Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand has introduced three limited-edition Nautilus wristwatches and, rather unexpectedly, a desk clock, all built around the blue horizontally embossed dial that has been part of the Nautilus look for decades. The ref. 5610/1P-001 kicks things off with a 38 mm platinum case and bracelet, limited to 2,000 pieces, and at just 6.9 mm thick, it brings back the medium-sized proportions Patek first explored in the 1980s.

The two 41 mm white-gold models offer a slightly different take on the same idea, with the ref. 5810/1G-001 sticking to an integrated bracelet and the ref. 5810G-001 swapping it for a navy blue composite strap and adding baguette diamond hour markers. The bracelet model is limited to 2,000 pieces, while only 1,000 examples of the diamond-set version will be made on the strap version. We have to admit, the latter might be our favourite of the three. All three are powered by the ultra-thin calibre 240, with its 22K gold mini-rotor engraved “50 1976–2026”, which feels like a much nicer way to mark the anniversary than squeezing a huge “50” onto the dial.

Then there’s the ref. 958G-001, because Patek Philippe apparently looked at the Nautilus and thought your desk deserved one too. Limited to just 100 pieces, the white gold desk clock measures 50.65 mm and carries the same sunburst blue, horizontally embossed dial as the anniversary watches, while its manually wound movement delivers an eight-day power reserve with day and date indications. It is completely over the top and almost certainly impossible for most of us to ever own, but a tiny white gold Nautilus sitting on the desk is exactly the sort of ridiculous luxury we can get behind.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications | Image: Patek Philippe

2. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Celestial Sunrise & Sunset

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications
  • Reference: 6105G-001
  • Diameter: 47 mm
  • Thickness: 12.39 mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: White gold skeletonized baton-style hands, white varnished.
  • Calibre: 240 C LU CL LCSO
  • Power Reserve: 38 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $437,610

Patek Philippe has gone to space with this one, or at least that’s what the new ref. 6105G-001 looks like. Its massive 47 mm white gold case combines polished and sandblasted finishes with an X-shaped pattern inspired by the tubular structures of space modules, while the sapphire-crystal dial recreates the portion of the northern sky visible from Geneva, complete with stars and the Moon. White skeletonized hands tell the time, and a red hand points to the date, giving you a surprisingly clear way to read what is otherwise a very busy watch.

The real magic sits inside the calibre 240 C LU CL LCSO, where a 22K gold mini-rotor powers sunrise and sunset displays alongside a summer and winter time correction system. The movement took more than five years to develop and led to six patent applications, with up to 48 hours of power reserve packed into a 12.39 mm-thick case. Finished with a black composite strap carrying the same X-shaped pattern, this is easily one of the strangest Patek Philippe watches we’ve seen in a while.

3. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Chiming Alarm

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications
  • Reference: 5322G-001 / 5322G-010
  • Diameter: 41 mm
  • Thickness: 12.22 mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: lacquered blue dial with black-gradient rim / lacquered green with black-gradient rim
  • Calibre: AL 30-660 S C
  • Power Reserve: 42 -52 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $281,321

An alarm on your phone gets the job done, but Patek Philippe clearly had something a little more elegant in mind. The new Grand Complications ref. 5322G brings a 24-hour alarm to the wrist, with the self-winding calibre AL 30-660 S C using a single hammer to strike a traditional gong at your chosen time. Housed in a 41 mm white gold case with a hobnail pattern, the watch features a lacquered blue or green dial that fades to black around the edges, and the alarm is set in a surprisingly straightforward way. With 42 to 52 hours of power reserve and 30 metres of water resistance, it is also Patek Philippe’s only water-resistant chiming watch, but at around $281,321, this might be the most expensive wake-up call you’ll ever ask for.

Patek Philippe Cubitus perpetual Calendar Ref. 5840P-001.
Patek Philippe Cubitus perpetual Calendar Ref. 5840P-001 | Image: Patek Philippe

4. Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Cubitus perpetual calendar
  • Reference: 5840P-001
  • Diameter: 45 mm
  • Thickness: 10 mm
  • Material: Platinum
  • Dial: Sunburst blue openworked with a horizontal line pattern
  • Calibre: 28-28 Q SQU
  • Power Reserve: 38 – 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $187,547

The Cubitus has only been around for a couple of years, and Patek Philippe is already throwing a Grand Complication into the mix. The new ref. 5840P-001 brings a perpetual calendar to the collection for the first time, housed in a substantial 45 mm platinum case that mixes polished and satin finishes across its rounded square shape. A baguette-cut diamond sits quietly at 6 o’clock, but your eyes will probably be drawn to the sunburst blue open-worked dial, where finely laser-cut horizontal strips reveal the square-shaped movement beneath. White-gold hour markers and hands are treated with lume, while the counters display the day, date, month, leap year, 24-hour cycle, and Moon phases without completely losing you in the process.

Turn it over, and the calibre 28-28 Q SQU gets even more interesting, with its square-shaped skeletonized construction made up of 313 parts and 27 jewels, all packed into a watch measuring just 10 mm thick. The self-winding movement uses a 22K gold micro-rotor decorated with the same horizontal pattern and a blue-filled Calatrava cross, while Gyromax and Spiromax components sit within, and the power reserve lasts up to 48 hours. Finished with a navy blue composite strap and cream stitching, we still think the Cubitus is going to divide opinion, but this is easily the most convincing version we’ve seen so far, and at $187,547, Patek Philippe clearly has much bigger plans for its square-shaped collection.

Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5249R-001.
Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5249R-001 | Image: Patek Philippe

5. Patek Philippe Complications — Automaton

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Complications
  • Reference: 5249R-001
  • Diameter: 43 mm
  • Thickness: 11.55 mm
  • Material: Rose Gold
  • Dial: Opaline matara brown
  • Calibre: 31-260 PS HMD AU
  • Power Reserve: 38 – 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $411,388

This might be the most playful watch Patek Philippe brought to Watches and Wonders 2026, but don’t let the fox and crow fool you, because there is some serious watchmaking going on underneath. Inspired by a 1958 pocket watch designed by Louis Cottier and based on The Fox and the Crow, the ref. 5249R-001 is the manufacturer’s first automaton wristwatch in its contemporary history. Press the pusher at 2 o’clock, and the Matara brown dial comes to life, with the applied gold fox and crow enacting the fable as the watch reveals the hours and minutes on demand via a retrograde display. The polished 43 mm rose gold case houses the self-winding calibre 31-260 PS HMD AU, comprising 267 parts and powered by an off-centre platinum mini-rotor, while a sapphire caseback, hidden beneath a hinged dust cover, lets you see the movement for yourself. Finished in a chocolate brown alligator strap and priced at around $411,388, this is exactly the sort of wonderfully unnecessary mechanical madness we like to see from Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Minute Repeater Ref. 7047G-001.
Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Minute Repeater Ref. 7047G-001 | Image: Patek Philippe

6. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Minute Repeater

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications – Minute Repeater
  • Reference: 7047G-001
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 10.24 mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Navy Blue
  • Calibre: R 27 PS
  • Power Reserve: 43 – 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: Not Water-Resistance
  • Price: USD $572,087

A minute repeater doesn’t usually look this sporty, and that’s exactly what makes the new ref. 7047G-001 so interesting. Inside the polished 38 mm white gold case is one of Patek Philippe’s most traditional complications, chiming the hours, quarter-hours and minutes on two classic gongs, but everything around it feels far more modern. The navy blue dial starts with an embossed carbon-style pattern in the centre, then moves through three finishes, while bright orange details on the small seconds hand and triangular hour markers give the watch a welcome hit of colour. Inside, the self-winding calibre R 27 PS comprises 327 parts and 39 jewels, with a 22K gold guilloched mini-rotor visible through the sapphire caseback and offering up to 48 hours of power reserve. Finished with a navy composite strap and orange stitching, this might be one of the coolest-looking minute repeaters we’ve seen in a while, although we’d still keep it very far away from water.

7. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — A Contemporary Chronograph

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications — Chronograph
  • Reference: 5270P-014 / 5270P-017 / 5270P-016 / 5270P-015
  • Diameter: 41 mm
  • Thickness: 12.4 mm
  • Material: Platinum
  • Dial: Lacquered green / Red / blue / Sunburst lacquered charcoal gray
  • Calibre: CH 29-535 PS Q
  • Power Reserve: 55 – 65 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $248,813

Choosing a colour might be the hardest complication here, with Patek Philippe expanding the platinum ref. 5270P family with three new dials for 2026. The new charcoal grey, navy blue and rather bold red versions join the already familiar emerald green ref. 5270P-014, with each 41 mm platinum case framing a lacquered dial that fades to black around the edges. The day and month sit neatly at 12 o’clock, while the date and Moon phase share the display at 6 o’clock, and there is even room for leap-year and day/night indications without making the dial feel impossible to read.

Underneath all that colour is the manually wound calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar chronograph movement with a traditional column-wheel architecture, six patented chronograph-related innovations and a power reserve of 55 to 65 hours when the chronograph is disengaged. The green version keeps things classic with a shiny black alligator strap, while the newer grey, blue and red models lean into a sportier look with black composite straps and contrasting stitching, with all four secured by a platinum fold-over clasp. For us, the charcoal grey version is the one we’d pick. That almost-black dial looks ridiculously good against the platinum case and gives the 5270P a much darker, more modern look.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5204G-010
Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Split-Seconds Chronograph | Image: Patek

8. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — Split-Seconds Chronograph

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications — Split-Seconds Chronograph
  • Reference: 5204G-010
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 14.3 mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Sunburst navy blue
  • Calibre: CHR 29-535 PS Q
  • Power Reserve: 55 – 65 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $380,971

Just when you thought the 5270P had enough going on, the new ref. 5204G-010 adds a split-seconds chronograph to the mix and somehow keeps everything looking remarkably tidy. Its 40 mm white gold case frames a sunburst navy blue dial with a tachymeter scale and flashes of red across the chronograph hands, giving the watch a sportier look, while the day and month appear at 12 o’clock and the date and Moon phase share the display at 6 o’clock alongside the leap-year and day/night indications. The manually wound calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q combines a perpetual calendar with a split-seconds chronograph, allowing two events that start together to be timed separately. The 496-part movement uses two column wheels and offers between 55 and 65 hours of power reserve when the chronograph is disengaged. Finished with a navy composite strap and red stitching, we like how Patek Philippe has made one of its most serious Grand Complications feel a little less black tie and a lot more modern.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications — In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-011
Patek Philippe Grand Complications — In-Line Perpetual Calendar | Image: Patek Philippe

9. Patek Philippe Grand Complications — In-Line Perpetual Calendar

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Grand Complications — In-Line Perpetual Calendar
  • Reference: 5236P-011
  • Diameter: 41.3 mm
  • Thickness: 11.07 mm
  • Material: Platinum
  • Dial: Silvery with vertical satin-finish & black-gradient rim
  • Calibre: 31-260 PS QL
  • Power Reserve: 38 – 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $156,039

If you prefer your Grand Complications a little cleaner, the new ref. 5236P-011 is worth a look. Patek Philippe groups the day, date, and month in a single long aperture at 12 o’clock, using four rotating discs to keep them aligned on a single line. The 41.3 mm hand-polished platinum case frames a silvery dial with a fine vertical satin finish and a black-gradient rim, while charcoal grey white gold hour markers and faceted baton-style hands keep the display sharp. The Moon phase is integrated into the small seconds at 6 o’clock, and two discreet apertures handle the leap-year and day/night indications. Inside, the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 31-260 PS QL features a recessed platinum mini-rotor, a Spiromax balance spring, and three patented innovations behind that clever in-line calendar, offering a power reserve of 38 to 48 hours. A signature diamond set into the platinum case at 6 o’clock finishes things off. After some of the wilder watches we’ve covered so far, we quite like how calm this one feels; clean, elegant, and stylish.

Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase Ref.  5396R-016
Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase | Image: Patek Philippe

10. Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase
  • Reference: 5396R-016
  • Diameter: 38.5 mm
  • Thickness: 11.2 mm
  • Material: Rose Gold
  • Dial: Sunburst sand beige
  • Calibre: 26-330 S QA LU 24H
  • Power Reserve: 35 – 45 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $67,517

After all the carbon patterns, openworked dials and space-inspired cases, the new ref. 5396R-016 feels like Patek Philippe returning to a slightly more traditional style, and we’re not complaining. Its fully polished 38.5 mm rose gold case is paired with a sunburst sand beige dial, rose gold faceted “obus”-style hour markers and dauphine hands. The day and month sit neatly in two apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date takes centre stage at 6 o’clock alongside the Moon phase and 24-hour indication. Inside, the self-winding calibre 26-330 S QA LU 24H automatically handles months with 30 and 31 days, meaning the calendar only needs correcting once a year at the end of February. Its 21K gold central rotor can be seen through the sapphire caseback, and the power reserve runs between 35 and 45 hours. Finished with a shiny dark chestnut alligator strap and rose gold fold-over clasp, this might not be the wildest Patek of Watches and Wonders 2026, but that sand beige and rose gold combination is easily one of the best-looking.

Patek Philippe Complications — World Time Ref. 7129J-001
Patek Philippe Complications — World Time | Image: Patek Philippe

11. Patek Philippe Complications — World Time

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Complications — World Time
  • Reference: 7129J-001
  • Diameter: 36 mm
  • Thickness: 8.83  mm
  • Material: Yellow Gold
  • Dial: Lacquered carmine red
  • Calibre: 240 HU
  • Power Reserve: 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $57,515

Taking the World Time in a warmer and far more colourful direction, the new ref. 7129J-001 pairs the classic look of yellow gold with a carmine red dial, giving one of Patek Philippe’s most technical travel watches a completely different personality. The compact 36 mm case frames a lacquered dial with a hand-guilloched old-basket-weave pattern at its centre, surrounded by the city disc and 24-hour display that lets you read the time across all 24 time zones at once. A pusher at 10 o’clock lets you change the local time zone while all the World Time displays move together without stopping the watch, thanks to the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 HU, which is made up of 229 parts, uses a 22K gold off-centre mini-rotor and delivers a minimum 48-hour power reserve. Finished with a shiny carmine-red alligator strap and yellow-gold prong buckle, this is a small watch with a lot of personality, and we have a feeling the red dial is going to be the part everyone remembers.

 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015
Patek Philippe Calatrava | Image: Patek Philippe

12. Patek Philippe Calatrava

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Calatrava
  • Reference: 5227G-015
  • Diameter: 39 mm
  • Thickness: 9.24  mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Rose gilt-opaline
  • Calibre: 26-330 S C
  • Power Reserve: 35 – 45 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $47,262

The Officer ‘s-style caseback is perhaps the most distinctive detail of the new Calatrava ref. 5227G-015, with a hand-fitted dust cover and an invisible hinge that preserves the clean lines of its polished 39 mm white gold case. Open the cover and a sapphire crystal reveals the self-winding calibre 26-330 S C, complete with a 21K gold central rotor, a stop-seconds function for precise time-setting, and a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. The front is equally understated, pairing a warm rose-gilt opaline dial with charcoal grey “obus”-style hour markers, faceted dauphine hands, and a discreet date aperture at 3 o’clock, while a shiny chocolate-brown alligator strap and white-gold prong buckle complete the classic look.

13. Patek Philippe Women’s Calatrava

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Calatrava (Woman)
  • Reference: 7200/50G-001 / 7200/50G-012
  • Diameter: 34.6 mm
  • Thickness: 7.37  mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Sunburst sand beige / Sunburst ice blue
  • Calibre: 240
  • Power Reserve: 35 – 45 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $37,635

Patek Philippe hasn’t forgotten the ladies at Watches and Wonders 2026, introducing two slender Calatrava models built around the elegant Officer ‘s-style case that has defined this feminine reference since 2013. The refs. 7200/50G-001 and 7200/50G-012 share a fully polished 34.6 mm white gold case with straight lugs and screwed-in strap bars, measuring just 7.37 mm thick. The choice comes down to a warm sunburst sand-beige dial or a cooler sunburst ice-blue dial. Applied white gold Breguet numerals, cabochon minute markers, and polished pear-shaped hands keep the dials beautifully simple, while the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 features a 22K gold off-centre mini-rotor, delivers a minimum 48-hour power reserve, and, of course, is finished with colour-matched straps and a white gold prong buckle.

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Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase Ref. 4946G-001.
Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase | Image: Patek Philippe

14. Patek Philippe Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Complications — Annual Calendar Moon Phase
  • Reference: 4946G-001
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11  mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Blue-gray
  • Calibre: 26-330 S QA LU
  • Power Reserve: 35 – 45 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $61,141

Patek Philippe has given its Annual Calendar a texture you almost want to reach through the screen and touch, with the new ref. 4946G-001 pairing a polished 38 mm white gold case with a blue-grey dial inspired by raw shantung silk. The unusual vertical and horizontal satin finish gives the dial an almost fabric-like appearance, while luminous applied numerals and sandblasted white gold leaf-shaped hands lend a slightly more contemporary look. The day and month are displayed by hands across the upper half of the dial, with the date and Moon phase at 6 o’clock. The self-winding calibre 26-330 S QA LU automatically distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months, meaning the calendar only needs correcting once a year at the end of February. A 21K gold central rotor sits inside, with the movement offering a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours, and the matching blue-grey calfskin strap with its denim pattern and white stitching finishes things off nicely.

15. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

  • Brand: Patek Philippe
  • Model: Golden Ellipse
  • Reference: 5738G-001 / 3738/100G-014
  • Diameter: 34.5 x 39.5 mm / 31.1 x 35.6 mm
  • Thickness: 5.9 mm
  • Material: White Gold
  • Dial: Sunburst olive green
  • Calibre: 240
  • Power Reserve: 48 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 3 Bar (30 metres, 100 feet)
  • Price: USD $43,011 / USD $40,511

To close out Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2026 releases, the Golden Ellipse arrives as a pair, bringing the collection’s famous “golden ratio” design back into focus in two complementary sizes. First introduced in 1968, the unmistakable case shape sits between a circle and a rectangle. The new refs. 5738G-001 and 3738/100G-014 pair polished white gold with matching sunburst olive-green dials, white-gold baton-style hour markers, and slender cheveu-style hands. The larger “Grand Taille” model measures 34.5 x 39.5 mm, while the smaller version measures 31.1 x 35.6 mm. Both are just 5.9 mm thick and are powered by the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240, whose recessed 22K gold mini-rotor helps preserve that remarkably slim profile. Finished with shiny olive-green calfskin straps and white-gold prong buckles.

What Do We Think About Patek Philippe’s 2026 Releases?

There is a lot to take in from Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2026, but our biggest takeaway is just how willing the manufacturer has been to have a little fun with serious watchmaking. The new collection moves from a space-inspired Celestial and a mechanical fox-and-crow automaton to sporty minute repeaters, colourful perpetual calendar chronographs and the first Grand Complication in the Cubitus family. Yet, none of it feels like Patek Philippe is chasing attention for the sake of it; the complicated movements, new displays and traditional finishing are still very much at the centre of these watches.

For us, though, the Nautilus 50th anniversary models are still the stars of the show. Patek Philippe could easily have gone overboard for such an important birthday, but we like that the three wristwatches stay close to the clean, horizontally embossed design that has defined the Nautilus since 1976, while the limited-edition white gold desk clock adds just enough madness to the celebration. If we had to pick one watch from the entire 2026 collection, the ref. 5810G-001 with its blue dial, baguette diamond hour markers and navy composite strap would get our vote — although that tiny Nautilus desk clock would look rather good in the Many Men office one day.

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Boat Shoes Are Having Their Big Spotlight Moment This Summer

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Summer always brings a certain vibe, doesn’t it? The days feel lighter, wardrobes get simpler, and suddenly we’re all reaching for pieces that slip on easily but still look sharp. And right now, no shoe captures that feeling better than the boat shoe. It’s the kind of footwear that’s been around forever, tucked away in closets, waiting patiently for its moment—and this summer, it’s finally making its mark.

You probably remember boat shoes from somewhere: perhaps your dad wore them religiously on family holidays, or maybe they were the unofficial uniform around half your college campus. For some, they are timeless; for others, they felt too stiff, too “prep,” or too stuck in the past. But here’s the thing—classics never really go away. They just sit back until fashion swings back in their favour.

And that’s exactly what’s happening now. The boat shoe is making a big comeback, and not in the same old, cookie-cutter style. Designers have given them a modern refresh—think bolder colours, softer materials, and sleeker shapes that look just as good on city streets as by the water. Comfortable, versatile, and simply cool, boat shoes are stepping into the spotlight this summer, and honestly, it’s about time.

Paul Sperry Where It All Began | Image: SPERRY

What Makes Boat Shoes More Than Just a Preppy Classic

The boat shoe’s story starts in the 1930s with a sailor named Paul Sperry. One day out on the water, frustrated with slipping around on his boat, he spotted something unusual—his dog, Prince, running across icy ground without a problem. Curious, he studied the paw pads and noticed the grooves that gave them grip. That lightbulb moment led him to carve similar siped grooves into a rubber sole, and when he paired it with a moccasin-style leather upper, the very first boat shoe was born. Functional, yes, but stylish enough to catch on far beyond the docks.

What’s fascinating is that the design wasn’t entirely new. The leather slip-on construction with laced eyelets had roots in the camp moccasins worn by Native Americans for centuries. They’d perfected the idea of durable, practical footwear long before Sperry came along. In a way, the boat shoe is part invention, part reinvention—a merging of Indigenous tradition with a new kind of modern utility.

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By the mid-20th century, boat shoes had sailed off the decks and into everyday American wardrobes. They weren’t just practical anymore; they carried a sense of coastal ease, a slice of that seaside lifestyle people wanted to tap into. Worn with chinos, shorts, or even lightweight suiting, they became shorthand for Americana—effortless, comfortable, and just a little bit aspirational.

The ’80s took things to a whole new level. Boat shoes exploded in popularity, showing up on college campuses, at summer barbecues, and practically everywhere along the East Coast. For a time, they weren’t just a shoe, they were a cultural marker. Slip them on and you instantly looked like you belonged in a Ralph Lauren ad. But as is often the case, overexposure sparked backlash.

By the ’90s and 2000s, the very things that once made boat shoes cool became their downfall. They were written off as too preppy, too uniform, too tied to a narrow idea of style. “Frat shoes,” some called them. Fashion moved on, leaving boat shoes to linger quietly in closets, worn mostly out of habit rather than trend. But classics have a way of hanging on, and even at their lowest point, the boat shoe never fully disappeared—it was just waiting for the tide to turn.

R.M.WILLIAMSIslet Leather Boat Shoes | Image: Mr. Porter

What Makes Up a Boat Shoe?

When you think of boat shoes, it’s easy to picture the overall look: leather uppers, laces, and those signature rubber soles. But what actually makes them unique compared to other casual shoes? A few key details set them apart, blending practicality with timeless style. Here’s a breakdown of the defining characteristics that give boat shoes their unmistakable identity.

  • Moccasin Toe Construction – The stitched moccasin-style toe is what gives boat shoes their classic shape. Unlike stiff dress shoes, this design allows the upper to bend and move with you, making them much more comfortable. It also adds a handcrafted touch, paying homage to the craftsmanship that has kept the style in favour for nearly a century.
  • 360-Degree Lacing System – Boat shoes have a rawhide lace that weaves all the way around the collar, not just across the front. This smart design allows you to adjust the fit from every angle, providing a snug wrap around the heel as well as the instep. Originally made for sailors needing extra security on deck, today it’s a feature that combines function with style.
  • Derby Construction – With its open lacing style, the derby setup makes boat shoes very easy to slip on and off. It maintains a casual vibe while still providing structure, striking a balance between a loafer and a sneaker look.
  • Thick Leather Laces – The chunky rawhide laces are more than just a style choice—they’re designed to withstand saltwater, sun, and constant use without snapping or fraying. Even now, they remain a defining feature, adding rugged character while also paying homage to the shoe’s nautical roots.
  • Special Soles – One of the most significant innovations of the boat shoe is its sole. Non-marking rubber, cut with siped grooves, was designed to grip wet decks without scuffing the surface. That exact grip works just as well on modern pavements, making them practical both by the water and in the city.
  • Heel Stitching – The reinforced stitching on the heel not only adds strength but also helps the shoe keep its structure over time. Since boat shoes are often worn without socks and in warmer weather, this extra durability allows them to withstand years of heavy use while maintaining their shape.
  • Unlined Leather Uppers – Unlike most shoes, boat shoes are often unlined, which keeps them soft, breathable, and lightweight. The leather moulds to the shape of your foot with wear, creating a personalised fit that only gets better over time. It’s one of the reasons why, once broken in, a good pair of boat shoes can feel like second skin.

Combine all these details, and you have more than just a casual slip-on — you’ve got a shoe designed with purpose and style. Every stitch, sole, and lace has a function while also adding to the distinctive character of the boat shoe. This blend of practicality and classic design explains why they’ve lasted nearly a century and why they’re making their way back into the spotlight today.

King Charles III Wearing Boat Shoes In Tetbury, U.K. | Image: Getty Images

Where To Wear Them?

The beauty of boat shoes in 2025 lies in how easily they suit everyday life. Think rooftop bars, weekend brunches, casual Fridays at the office—they offer just enough sophistication to appear intentional without feeling excessive. Even King Charles III has been seen wearing them while out in Tetbury, U.K., showing that boat shoes aren’t just for seaside holidays anymore. If they’re good enough for royalty on a country walk, they can work nearly anywhere.

Summer is when they really shine. Pair them with linen shorts for a beachside dinner, or match them with rolled-up chinos for an afternoon in the city—they bridge the tricky gap between sneakers and loafers better than most shoes. And if you’re travelling, they’re lightweight in your bag, easy to slip on at the airport, and versatile enough for sightseeing by day and dinners by night. Wherever summer takes you, boat shoes are more than ready to join the journey.

MORJAS Full-Grain Leather Boat Shoes | Images: Mr. Porter

How To Make Boat Shoes Work for You?

What makes boat shoes such a smart choice this summer is how smoothly they’ve adapted to modern style. Once associated with khaki shorts and polo shirts, they’ve moved beyond that uniform and now complement a much broader wardrobe. Slip them on with tailored shorts and a linen shirt for a classic summer look, or roll up your chinos and pair them with a lightweight Oxford for a more polished appearance. They add refinement without being formal, which is exactly what summer dressing calls for.

Colour is important in keeping the look fresh. The traditional brown leather versions will always be classics, but today’s boat shoes come in shades like olive, burgundy, navy, and even clean white. These bolder tones allow you to experiment and add personality to outfits that might otherwise feel basic. Whether you’re dressing up for dinner or keeping it relaxed for the weekend, there’s a boat shoe variation that suits the vibe.

Saman Amel City Moc Full-Grain Leather Boat Shoes | Image: Saman Amel

Designers have also stepped up to reimagine the silhouette for a new generation. From buttery-soft leathers to eco-conscious materials and hybrid designs that flirt with sneaker-like comfort, the boat shoe has evolved far beyond its preppy stereotype. These thoughtful updates make them feel contemporary and versatile again, shedding the baggage of the past while retaining the craftsmanship that originally made them iconic.

At the end of the day, the boat shoe’s comeback isn’t just about nostalgia — it’s about demonstrating its durability. Nearly a century after Paul Sperry’s original design, the boat shoe has again established itself as a favorite for men who prioritize comfort, style, and versatility. This summer, they’re not just making a return; they’re reminding us why they became an icon initially. Slip into a pair, and you’ll see how effortlessly they can work for you.

Saman Amel City Moc Full-Grain Leather Boat Shoes | Image: Mr. Porter

Boat Shoes As An Investment Piece

What distinguishes boat shoes from trendy footwear is their longevity. Made with durable moccasin stitching, thick leather laces, and sturdy rubber soles, a high-quality pair isn’t just for one summer—it’s built to last for years. The more you wear them, the better they become, shaping to your foot and gaining that worn-in character that makes them uniquely yours. Most quality pairs typically start around CAD $150, but considering how long they last, that price quickly proves to be money well spent.

That’s what makes them such a smart investment. Unlike sneakers that wear out quickly or cheap loafers that lose their shape, boat shoes age gracefully and remain versatile across many occasions. From vacations to casual Fridays, city streets to seaside getaways, they’re the pair you’ll keep returning to. When you consider cost per wear, boat shoes more than justify their place in your wardrobe—showing they’re not just a trend, but reclaiming their role as a timeless staple.

General FAQ’s

Can You Wear Boat Shoes With Socks?

Traditionally, boat shoes are worn without visible socks to maintain a clean, relaxed look. If you prefer socks for comfort, choose no-show or invisible socks—this way, you get the best of both worlds.

Are Boat Shoes Only For Summer?

Not at all. While they look great in warm weather with shorts and linen, modern versions in suede or darker leather can be worn into spring and autumn. They’re versatile enough to be worn almost year-round, depending on how you style them.

How Do You Break In Boat Shoes?

Boat shoes may feel stiff initially, but the unlined leather softens quickly. Wear them around the house with thin socks for a few days, and you’ll notice they start shaping to your feet. Some people even lightly condition the leather to speed up the process.

What Outfits Work Best with Boat Shoes?

Boat shoes excel in smart-casual settings. Imagine tailored shorts with a linen shirt for summer evenings, chinos with a polo for weekend brunch, or even slim jeans with a lightweight blazer when aiming for a sharper look. They’re versatile enough to dress up or down, but steer clear of pairing them with formal suits—they’re designed for relaxed sophistication, not boardroom meetings.

How Do You Care For Boat Shoes?

Boat shoes are built to last, but a little maintenance makes a difference. Wipe them down with a damp cloth after wearing, condition the leather every few months to keep it supple, and allow them to air dry naturally if they get wet. Keep them away from direct heat—that can warp the leather. With proper care, an quality pair can easily last for years.

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