Grand Seiko Presents a New Calibre at Watches and Wonders 2025

Grand Seiko Presents a New Calibre at Watches and Wonders 2025

Published: 5th April 2025

Reading Time: 9 minutes

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As Watches and Wonders 2025 rolls around, the watchmaking world is bracing for what is sure to be a showstopper from Grand Seiko. Known for its flawless blend of traditional Japanese craftsmanship and state-of-the-art technology, Grand Seiko is set to unveil something special. This year, they are releasing a brand-new calibre that is bound to excite collectors and watch enthusiasts. And if you have ever seen a Grand Seiko in person, you know that when they make a move, it is not just a step—it is a leap.

With this exciting new release, Grand Seiko reinforces its commitment to precision, beauty, and innovation. It’s safe to say this calibre will raise the bar once again. So, whether you’re a seasoned collector or someone just entering the world of luxury timepieces, all eyes should be on Grand Seiko as they redefine what’s possible in horology.

Grand Seiko Calibre 9RB2

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Calibre 9RB2
Diameter: 30 mm
Thickness: 5.02 mm
Winding Mechanism: Automatic With Manual Winding
Accuracy: ±20 Seconds Per Year (±3 Second Per Month)
Number Of Jewels: 34 Jewels
Power Reserve: 72 Hours

The Calibre 9RB2 was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, and let’s just say—it’s a total game-changer. With an accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, this new movement elevates precision to the next level, thanks to significant advancements in Japanese quartz processing and a smart integrated circuit that keeps everything stable, even when the temperature changes.

It’s part of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Collection, and you can find it in two stunning models: the SLGB001 in Platinum 950 and the SLGB003 in High-Intensity Titanium. Both feature a dial with a cool “Ice Forest” texture, inspired by the peaceful Kirigamine Highlands in Japan.

With a 72-hour power reserve, a regulation switch for accuracy adjustments, and a sleek design, the 9RB2 demonstrates once again why Grand Seiko, renowned for its Japanese craftsmanship, is a leader in the world of luxury timepieces.

Ice Forest – 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Evolution 9 Ice Forest – 65th Anniversary Limited Edition
Reference: SLGB001
Diameter: 37 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Material: Platinum
Dial Colour: Ice Forest
Calibre: Calibre 9RB2
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Water Resistance: 10 Bar (100 metres, 330 feet)
Price: USD $39,000 (Limited Edition – 80 Pieces)

The SLGB001 is the first watch to feature the new Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, introduced in Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Collection. This innovative movement offers an accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, setting a new benchmark for precision in mainspring-driven watches. The watch has a 37mm Platinum 950 case, combining elegance with durability. Its dial, inspired by the frost-covered trees of Japan’s Kirigamine Highlands, showcases a unique “Ice Forest” texture.

Crafted from Platinum 950, the SLGB001 case is both luxurious and durable. The Zaratsu-polished surfaces and mirror-finished bevels reflect light beautifully, showcasing Grand Seiko’s attention to detail. The blue crocodile leather strap, combined with a Platinum 950 clasp partly made of 18k white gold, guarantees both comfort and style. With a water resistance of 100 meters and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, it is designed for everyday wear.

The SLGB001 is scheduled to launch in June 2025, and with only 80 pieces available worldwide, it’s a rare collector’s item. Each piece is individually numbered, making it an exclusive timepiece. This watch truly represents Grand Seiko’s dedication to both precision and artistry.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection SLGB003G | Image: Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko – Ice Forest

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Evolution 9 Ice Forest – 65th Anniversary Limited Edition
Reference: SLGB003
Diameter: 37 mm
Thickness: 11.4 mm
Material: High-Intensity Titanium
Dial Colour: silver-tinged blue hue
Calibre: Calibre 9RB2
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Water Resistance: 10 Bar (100 metres, 330 feet)
Price: USD $10,900

Much like the Limited Edition above, the SLGB003 pays homage to the stunning Ice Forests of the Kirigamine Highlands in Japan’s Shinshu region. While the SLGB001’s dial features a more intense blue, the SLGB003 opts for a subtler approach with delicate pale blue accents that capture the essence of the frosty landscape. The dial’s silver-tinged blue hue perfectly mirrors the serene, frosty atmosphere of the Kirigamine Highlands, where the winter air gives the trees their beautiful icy coating.

The SLGB003 replaces the leather strap of the SLGB001 with a high-intensity titanium bracelet that combines durability with lightweight comfort. It also features a new three-step micro-adjustment clasp that doesn’t require tools, allowing for 2mm adjustments to ensure a perfect fit and ultimate comfort throughout the day.

This is also scheduled for release in June 2025 and will be available at Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retailers worldwide. With a price tag of $10,900, it combines the precision of the Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2 with a refined design, making it a standout addition to any collection.

Heritage Collection – Purple Kiri

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Heritage Collection
Reference: SBGW323
Diameter: 36.5 mm
Thickness: 11.6 mm
Material: Stainless Steel
Dial Colour: Purple Kiri
Calibre: Calibre 9S64
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Water Resistance: 10 Bar (100 metres, 330 feet)
Price: USD $5,600

A stunning addition to the Heritage Collection, this timepiece celebrates elegance and nature. The soft lilac dial, inspired by the kiri (paulownia) flower—known as the “empress tree” and “princess tree”—captures the delicate beauty of this feminine bloom, which also serves as Iwate Prefecture’s symbol. Boasting a pressed pattern that represents Mt. Iwate as seen from Shizukuishi, it is a graceful nod to the region’s natural beauty.

Powered by the manual-winding Caliber 9S64, which features a 72-hour power reserve, this watch delivers precision and reliability. The 36.5mm stainless steel case, along with the comfortable bracelet, ensures both style and practicality.

Tentagraph Snow Blue

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Evolution 9 Tentagraph Snow Blue
Reference: SLGC007
Diameter: 43.2 mm
Thickness: 15.3 mm
Material: High-Intensity Titanium
Dial Colour: Snow Blue
Calibre: Calibre 9SC5
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Water Resistance: 10 Bar (100 metres, 330 feet)
Price: USD $14,100

Set to launch alongside the Purple Kiri model in May 2025, the Evolution 9 Tentagraph SLGC007 is a stunning example of Grand Seiko’s dedication to precision and artistry. Inspired by the snowy landscape of Mt. Iwate during winter, this mechanical chronograph combines the beauty of deep snow with rugged mountain ridges. The dial showcases a striking dual-layered ‘Snow Blue’ hue, featuring an embossed pattern that mirrors the ridge lines of the mountain, providing breathtaking visual depth.

The connection between the watch and Iwate Prefecture is strong, as it is home to Grand Seiko’s GS Studio Shizukuishi, nestled within a tranquil forest. While the harsh winter conditions showcase the region’s tough exterior, the watch’s design conveys a deeper meaning. It serves as a reminder of the spirit of Mt. Iwate, which, despite its challenging nature, teaches that “Even if life is rough, we should live with determination.”

Tokyo Lion Tentagraph

Brand: Grand Seiko
Model: Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
Reference: SLGC009
Diameter: 43 mm
Thickness: 15.6 mm
Material: Brilliant Hard Titanium
Dial Colour: Snow Blue
Calibre: Calibre 9SC5
Power Reserve: 72 Hours
Water Resistance: 20 Bar (200 metres, 660 feet)
Price: USD $16,400

The last of Grand Seiko’s collection at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009, a bold and adventurous timepiece designed to “invite its owner on an adventurous journey.” This model features the Tentagraph Calibre 9SC5, a high-beat mechanical chronograph movement operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour with a 72-hour power reserve. It also incorporates a vertical clutch and column wheel for precise chronograph operation.

This is the first in the Sport Collection to feature Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium, enhancing both durability and aesthetic appeal. The case design, inspired by a lion’s paw, showcases bold, angular lines and Zaratsu-polished surfaces that reflect the brand’s careful craftsmanship.

One of the most striking features is its new dial pattern, developed around the motif of a sprinting lion with its mane trailing behind. This dynamic design adds to the piece’s adventurous spirit. The dial also features three-dimensional sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, designed to maximize legibility while adding depth to the overall appearance.

The chronograph pushers have been redesigned for a satisfying tactile experience, resulting in smoother and more precise operation. Additionally, the watch offers 200 meters of water resistance and magnetic resistance up to 4,800 A/m, making it as durable as it is stylish.

Set to launch in August 2025, the SLGC009 is an exceptional combination of ruggedness and refined design. Whether you’re diving into an adventure or simply appreciating its craftsmanship, this timepiece is ready for whatever comes your way.

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About the Author

Elias Al Bay

Elias Albay is the Founder and Director of Many Men Magazine, a Toronto-based digital publication dedicated to promoting modern masculinity through style, culture, and self-improvement. What started as a personal turning point became a purposeful platform. — born from Elias’ desire to create something meaningful after completing his studies and finding no career path that truly matched his ambitions. With a background in Civil Engineering from York University and experience in Commercial Flight Operations at CAE, he applied skills, and resilience from both fields to forge a new path.

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Breguet’s Marine Hora Mundi 5555 Launches Into Orbit with NASA-Inspired Design

Elias Al Bay

Published: 26th September 2025

Reading Time: 9 minutes

The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 marks the end of Breguet’s 250th-anniversary celebrations, following the celestial debut of the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255.
Limited to 50 pieces, the watch features a 43.9mm case in Breguet gold, highlighted by the collection’s signature fluted middle.
Its two-layer dial blends miniature enamel painting with luminous phosphorescent enamel, offering a NASA-inspired view of Earth from space.
Each example is presented in a uniquely designed 250th-anniversary red leather box, individually numbered and inspired by historic Breguet cases.

Just when you thought things were about to get done, Breguet comes right back up with its fifth chapter in celebration of its 250th anniversary, unveiling Marine Hora Mundi 5555. A timepiece that beautifully encapsulates the maison’s signature style, blending world timer functionality with undeniable elegance. This latest chapter in the anniversary collection elevates world-timer features with a level of sophistication that feels both commanding and otherworldly, drawing inspiration from NASA’s pioneering spirit while remaining true to Breguet’s rich heritage.

That being said, this isn’t the sort of watch you wear every morning. Limited to just 50 pieces, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is a statement of exclusivity, crafted with intricate mechanics and deep-space design cues. Those who are lucky enough to grab a piece will set you back of a price tag of USD $116,200 — a steep figure, perhaps, but one that grants a stunning piece of Breguet history during a time when the brand is celebrating a quarter-millennium of innovation. In every way, this timepiece feels like a tribute to past brilliance and future exploration, perfectly timed for collectors who value both.

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 | Image: Breguet

Marine Hora Mundi 5555’s Dial

At first glance, the watch exhibits the familiar design language of its lineage. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 features a 43.9mm case and the impressive 77F1 calibre, providing a pre-programmed instant-jump dual time zone, date display, day/night indicator, and synchronized city function — all signature elements of the Hora Mundi name. But treating this anniversary model as a simple continuation of the existing collection would miss the point entirely. According to Breguet, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is a thoroughly reworked timepiece that uses its mechanical foundation as a starting point rather than a destination.

The more you look and study this artwork, the more you’ll notice the two distinct layers—one crafted with guilloché and the other in sapphire surface, inspired by NASA’s “Black Marble” imagery — the stunning nocturnal view of Earth from space. The deep shades of the central globe are dusted with phosphorescent enamel, creating the impression of illuminated cities scattered across a darkened planet. Breguet then adds a subtle curvature effect, achieved through precisely engraved meridian and parallel lines. As these lines tighten toward the cardinal points, the dial takes on a striking three-dimensional roundness, giving the watch an almost orbital presence. It’s a design that feels alive, atmospheric and unmistakably connected to the spirit of global exploration.

Breguet has never been shy about pushing the boundaries of dial construction, and the Hora Mundi line serves as a testing ground for that creativity. In 2023, the maison introduced the 5557 model (Ref.5557BR/YS/RW0), featuring an unexpected three-layer design: a sapphire crystal base engraved with a world map, a silvered gold layer for the time display, and a lapis lazuli plate dedicated to the calendar. It was a striking example of how the maison can transform familiar complications through bold design.

The approach with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is more painterly, yet no less intricate. Here, the challenge isn’t structural—it’s artistic. Each dial undergoes three separate painting stages, applied on both sides to create depth and texture. The continents are crafted in miniature enamel before being transferred using transparent petit feu enamel with pad printing, a technique that requires absolute precision. Adding a personal touch, Breguet has also confirmed that only 50 pieces will ever be made and will invite owners to customize the cities assigned to the 24 time zones, ensuring no two pieces carry the same worldly identity.

A Series of Firsts for Breguet

Innovation becomes more challenging as a maison’s history extends, yet Breguet still manages to surprise with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555. One of the most notable shifts occurs in the case itself: for the first time, the Marine is crafted entirely from 18K Breguet gold, offering a richer presence on the wrist. In an unusually bold aesthetic choice, the central lug attachment has also been polished, a rare departure from the collection’s typical finishes that adds a subtle, unexpected shine.

Flip the watch over, and the anniversary narrative continues. The caseback features the distinctive double-edged Quai de l’Horloge guilloché, specially created for Breguet’s 250th milestone. Beneath that patterned frame lies another first — the oscillating weight of the calibre 77F1 has been rendered in Breguet gold for the very first time. It’s a thoughtful layering of technical refinement and commemorative detail, demonstrating that even after centuries of watchmaking, Breguet still knows how to craft something genuinely new.

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 77F1 Calibre

Although not a new invention, the 77F1 calibre remains one of Breguet’s most impressive technical feats. Instead of functioning like a typical dual-time mechanism, it operates more like a mechanical computer — one designed to remember and instantly access two complete sets of data. Breguet built the calibre around a mechanical memory system, an internal logic that enables the watch to store one time zone while actively showing another.

Here’s how it functions:

The wearer first sets the main city along with its corresponding time and date using the crown at 3 o’clock. This establishes the primary reference zone. Next, a second city from the 24 available time zones is programmed via the push-button crown at 8 o’clock, which locks in another complete set of time and date values. Beneath the dial, the movement’s intelligence takes over. A precisely orchestrated assembly of cams, hammers, and an integrated differential calculates and synchronises the necessary adjustments between the two zones — automatically compensating for time differences and date changes.

Once everything is in place, the movement takes place. A single press of the pusher at 8 o’clock triggers an instant jump between the primary and secondary time zones. Hours, minutes, and even the date realign in perfect harmony, without the lag or incremental movement seen in simpler mechanisms. To the eye, it feels almost magical — a choreography of components switching worlds in a fraction of a second.

You might initially see it as a GMT complication, but the system is much more sophisticated. A GMT provides an additional hour hand for reference; the 77F1 features a full dual-time and date switch, supported by a much more advanced engineering framework, as Emmanuel Breguet, head of patrimony, explains.

“A GMT watch allows the local and reference time to be read quickly and easily, often via a dedicated hand,” Breguet said. “A dual time zone watch, on the other hand, goes further: it offers a simultaneous and intuitive reading of two distinct times, supported by a more sophisticated horological architecture.”

Breguet’s 250th Anniversary Models

For Breguet, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 serves as a meaningful ending to an anniversary year marked by craftsmanship and heritage. Earlier in the celebration, the maison introduced the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, a celestial masterpiece that honored Abraham-Louis Breguet’s original tourbillon patent and advanced the complication with a flying construction. Its launch set a high standard — one that perfectly captured the tone for what would become one of the most notable years in Breguet’s modern history.

Now, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 concludes that chapter with its own unique identity. Limited to 50 pieces worldwide and priced at USD $116,200, the timepiece features a 43.9mm case in Breguet gold, accented by the fluted mid-case that has become a signature of the collection. The dial — constructed across two detailed layers — blends miniature enamel artistry with phosphorescent enamel accents, capturing the luminous, NASA-inspired view of Earth at night. To complete the experience, each owner receives a Special Edition 250th-anniversary presentation box made of deep red leather and individually numbered, serving as a contemporary tribute to the historic red Moroccan leather cases once used by the maison.

View Marine Hora Mundi 5555 At Breguet