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L’Heure Élevée – Watch News #5

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Welcome to the fifth edition of L’Heure Élevée, featuring an exciting lineup of timepieces to explore. Today, we’re diving into a diverse selection of watches, from affordable, everyday wear to exclusive limited editions.

Let’s examine the newest offerings from Undone, Praesidus, and Urwerk, each showcasing unique designs, functionality, and craftsmanship. Whether your preference leans towards customizable items, vintage military watches, or innovative futuristic styles, you’ll find appealing options for every collector.

But that’s not all—we’ll also be highlighting three new models from Raketa, a brand celebrated for its unique dial designs. These recent additions further challenge conventions with their creative aesthetics and mechanical craftsmanship.

With so much ground to explore, let’s jump right in and see what the watch world has to offer this time.

Undone X Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Black | Image: Undone

Undone X Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Black

  • Brand: Undone
  • Model: Shibuya Hachi Pawfect
  • Reference: COL-SHI-GRY
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 12.7 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Beige – White Dial
  • Calibre: Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz
  • Water Resistance:  3 bar ( 30 metres, 100 feet )
  • Price:  USD $320
Undone X Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Classic | Image: Undone

Undone X Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Classic

  • Brand: Undone
  • Model: Shibuya Hachi Pawfect
  • Reference: COL-SHI-BRN
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 12.7 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Beige – White Dial
  • Calibre: Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz
  • Water Resistance:  3 bar ( 30 metres, 100 feet )
  • Price:  USD $320

The Undone X Shibuya Hachi Pawfect collection is perfect for enthusiasts of Japanese watches and their deep narratives. Honouring Hachiko, the famous dog celebrated for his steadfast loyalty, this collection includes two unique models: the Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Classic and the Shibuya Hachi Pawfect Black. Each watch features a 40mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 12.7mm, making them excellent for daily use. With a beige-white dial, the watches exude a clean, classic style, appealing to collectors and admirers of Japanese-inspired design.

These watches feature the Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz calibre, blending quartz precision with mechanical charm. Offering water resistance up to 30 metres (3 bar), they provide practicality alongside style. At a price of USD $320, these watches are an excellent choice for anyone wanting to include a well-crafted Japanese timepiece in their collection. Whether you’re captivated by the tale of Hachiko or have an appreciation for Japanese craftsmanship, this collection boasts a unique piece for every enthusiast.

Raketa Malevich Cross | Image: Raketa

Raketa Malevich Cross

  • Brand: Raketa
  • Model: Malevich Cross
  • Reference: W-11-16-10-0311
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 14.7 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black, White
  • Calibre: 2615
  • Power Reserve: 40 Hours
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price:  EUR €1,950 ( Limited Edition 500 Pieces )
Raketa Malevich Square | Image: Raketa

Raketa Malevich Square

  • Brand: Raketa
  • Model: Malevich Cross
  • Reference: W-11-16-10-0298
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 14.7 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black, White
  • Calibre: 2615
  • Power Reserve: 40 Hours
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: EUR €1,950 ( Limited Edition 500 Pieces )
Raketa Malevich Circle | Image: Raketa

Raketa Malevich Circle

  • Brand: Raketa
  • Model: Malevich Cross
  • Reference: W-11-16-10-0310
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 14.7 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black – White Dial
  • Calibre: 2615
  • Power Reserve: 40 Hours
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: EUR €1,950 ( Limited Edition 500 Pieces )

Raketa’s Malevich Cross, Malevich Square, and Malevich Circle boldly embody the fusion of horology and art, inspired by Kazimir Malevich’s Suprematist movement. These watches transcend simple timekeeping; they serve as wearable honors to a pivotal figure in abstract art. Every model showcases Malevich’s distinctive geometric minimalism, enabling them to shine in modern watch design.

Encased in a 40mm stainless steel shell with a thickness of 14.7mm, these watches project a bold yet sophisticated aura on the wrist. The black and white dials reflect the striking contrasts seen in Malevich’s artwork, enhancing the collection’s visual impact. Each watch is powered by the Raketa 2615 calibre, an in-house mechanism offering a 40-hour power reserve, which guarantees mechanical dependability. With a water resistance rating of 10 bars (100 meters or 330 feet), they are practical for daily use while preserving their artistic charm.

Capped at only 500 pieces per model, these watches are designed for collectors who value both the legacy of Russian watchmaking and bold, contemporary aesthetics. Priced at EUR €1,950, they present a rare chance to possess an instance of horological artistry that blends classic design with modern craftsmanship. Whether you’re attracted to the sharp edges of the Cross, the harmonious proportions of the Square, or the smooth symmetry of the Circle, this collection embodies Malevich’s artistic vision in a fresh way.

Praesidus Type H-75 – Light Gray Canvas | Image: Praesidus

Praesidus Type H-75 – Light Gray Canvas

  • Brand: Praesidus
  • Model: Type H-75 – Light Gray Canvas
  • Reference: P-38-H75-MB-LBCK1
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black Dial
  • Calibre: VK64 Chronograph Mecaquartz
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: USD $245
 Praesidus Type H-75 – Black Canvas | Image: Praesidus

 Praesidus Type H-75 – Black Canvas

  • Brand: Praesidus
  • Model: Type H-75 – Light Black Canvas
  • Reference: P-38-H75-MB-LBCK1
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black Dial
  • Calibre: VK64 Chronograph Mecaquartz
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: USD $245
 Praesidus Type H-75 – Brown Leather | Image: Praesidus

 Praesidus Type H-75 – Brown Leather

  • Brand: Praesidus
  • Model: Type H-75 – Brown Leather
  • Reference: P-38-H75-MB-LBCK1
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black Dial
  • Calibre: VK64 Chronograph Mecaquartz
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: USD $245
Praesidus Type H-75 – Sand Leather | Image: Praesidus

Praesidus H-75 – Sand Leather

  • Brand: Praesidus
  • Model: Type H-75 – Sand Leather
  • Reference: P-38-H75-MB-RBRK1
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm
  • Material: Stainless Steel Case
  • Dial Color: Black Dial
  • Calibre: VK64 Chronograph Mecaquartz
  • Water Resistance:  10 bar ( 100 metres, 330 feet )
  • Price: USD $245

The Praesidus Type H-75 collection pays homage to the military-grade tool watches created in the 1970s for Italian helicopter pilots, engineered to endure the rigours of aviation and field operations. These watches were built for quick readability, exceptional accuracy, and resilience in extreme environments. Honouring that tradition, Praesidus has modernized the H-75 with improved water resistance (10ATM/100m) and the dependable VK64 Mecaquartz Chronograph movement, which merges mechanical and quartz technology advantages.

Measuring 38mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick, the stainless steel case offers a comfortable yet robust presence on the wrist, making it perfect for everyday wear. Its rugged, military-inspired design is complemented by a black dial featuring contrasting hands and indices that enhance readability, honoring its aviation heritage. Additionally, the chronograph function adds extra practicality.

This collection stands out due to its diverse strap options, enabling wearers to choose one that aligns perfectly with their lifestyle. The Brown Leather and Sand Leather straps offer a timeless, vintage charm, ideal for individuals who appreciate a sophisticated yet robust appearance. On the other hand, the Light Gray Canvas and Black Canvas straps impart a practical, adventure-ready vibe, catering to those with a preference for a tactical style.

Priced at $245, the Type H-75 is an affordable military-inspired chronograph that fulfills its original mission—offering functionality, durability, and historical relevance in a contemporary, wear-ready design.

Urwerk UR-230 Polaris | Image: Urwerk

Urwerk UR-230 Polaris

  • Brand: Urwerk
  • Model: UR-230 Polaris
  • Reference: P-38-H75-MB-RBRK1
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 18.38 mm
  • Material: White Ceramic
  • Dial Color: Black Dial
  • Calibre: UR-7.30
  • Reserve Power: 48 Hours
  • Water Resistance:  3 bar ( 30 metres, 100 feet )
  • Price: USD $164,980 ( Limited Edition 35 Pieces )

Concluding our showcase is the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris, a watch that epitomizes Urwerk’s unwavering quest for innovation. Building on the foundation laid by last year’s UR-230 Eagle, which garnered acclaim for its striking design and mechanical brilliance, the Polaris elevates the experience to a whole new tier.

The UR-230 Eagle was recognized for its unique design and advanced features, but the Polaris enhances the vision of futuristic watchmaking with its elegant white ceramic case and striking aesthetic. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 18.38mm in thickness, it offers a bold yet sophisticated look on the wrist. The black dial, featuring Urwerk’s distinctive satellite hour complication, not only draws the eye but also challenges conventional timekeeping.

Inside, the UR-7.30 movement drives the watch, offering a reliable 48-hour power reserve alongside its stunning beauty. With water resistance up to 3 bar (30 meters / 100 feet), it is designed to withstand everyday challenges. However, the true distinction of the UR-230 Polaris lies in its exclusivity—only 35 pieces are made, ensuring that ownership places you among a rare circle of watch aficionados.

With a price tag of USD $164,980, the Urwerk UR-230 Polaris transcends the traditional concept of a watch; it symbolizes a commitment to the future of horology. For enthusiasts who appreciate cutting-edge design, mechanical excellence, and exceptionally rare timepieces, this limited-edition model stands as a pinnacle of luxury and innovation in fine watchmaking.

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Piaget Dresses the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in Khaki Green Style

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  • Piaget maintains its long-standing leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, a legacy that started with the 9P movement in 1957 and the 12P automatic calibre in 1960.
  • The new Khaki Green releases build on the same architecture that earned the Altiplano Ultimate Concept the Aiguille d’Or at the 2020 GPHG.
  • The 2024 tourbillon version marks a significant advancement in Piaget’s quest for ultra-slim design and technical innovation.
  • Together, the Altiplano 910P and the AUC Tourbillon strengthen Piaget’s reputation for combining innovative engineering with subtle elegance.

Ultra-thin watches have once again been stealing the spotlight, with brands across the industry pushing the boundaries of how slim a mechanical timepiece can be. Richard Mille and Bulgari have been the leading charge in creating creations like the RM UP-01 and the Octo Finissimo Ultra from Watches and Wonders, just how far modern engineering can go. But this time, it’s Piaget reclaiming the conversation. Long respected for its elegance, razor-thin designs, the maison has returned with two new creations and has grabbed the worlds attention just seconds after being introduced.

Attention intensified after Piaget introduced two ultra-thin innovations that have the watch world green with envy, and leading the way is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in a striking Khaki Green finish. The watch features one of the slimmest tourbillon constructions ever achieved, giving it a sleek and modern look. Instead of presenting its ultra-thin structure as just a technical feat, Piaget turned it into a daring fashion statement — showing that innovation can be subtle, expressive, and uniquely stylish when executed at this level.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon | Image: Piaget

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

  • Brand: Piaget
  • Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon
  • Reference: G0A50530
  • Diameter: 41.5mm
  • Thickness: 2 mm
  • Material: Cobalt Alloy
  • Dial Colour: Green – Cobalt Dial
  • Calibre: 970P-UC
  • Power Reserve: 35 Hours
  • Water Resistance: 2 Bar (20 metres, 65 feet )
  • Price: Available Upon Request

The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in Khaki Green signifies a new chapter in Piaget’s ultra-thin heritage. Instead of simply revisiting last year’s AUC Tourbillon, Piaget has expanded the concept with two new Khaki Green models, including the updated Altiplano 910P. Together, they represent a more modern, refined approach to extreme slimness — with the tourbillon version still maintaining its incredible 2mm thickness. That remarkably thin profile is achieved through Piaget’s signature construction method, where the caseback isn’t just structural; it forms the mainplate of the movement, enabling everything to sit within a single unified plane.

This latest Tourbillon measures 41.5mm and is crafted from a durable cobalt alloy, giving the watch a modern presence that balances its delicate engineering. One of the key upgrades is the introduction of a sapphire caseback, providing a clear view of the calibre 970P-UC with a 35-hour power reserve. The movement features a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishes, creating a sleek visual rhythm that appears more expressive and contemporary. Piaget also incorporated its signature cross-shaped motif across several movement components, subtly tying the aesthetic together with thoughtful detailing.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon | Image: Piaget
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon | Image: Piaget

Heritage continues to play a vital role in the overall design, as seen from its caseback, which displays two messages Piaget has incorporated into its identity: the motto “Always do better than necessary” and “La Côte-aux-Fées,” the small Swiss village where the maison was founded and where its most intricate pieces are still crafted today. Even the strap communicates Piaget’s language — a matching khaki green calfskin piece featuring a newly developed “Polish Mesh” pattern, providing a subtle homage to the maison’s goldsmithing heritage and its reputation for exquisite finishing techniques.

Perhaps the most exciting development is Piaget’s decision to include the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in its Infinitely Personal program. This allows collectors to craft a version that’s entirely their own, selecting custom materials, finishes, and engravings. For a watch already pushing the limits of what ultra-thin mechanics can achieve, the chance to personalise it introduces a whole new level of exclusivity and emotional resonance.

Piaget Altiplano 910P Khaki Green | Image: Piaget

Piaget Altiplano 910P Khaki Green

  • Brand: Piaget
  • Model: Altiplano 910P Khaki Green
  • Reference: G0A50126
  • Diameter: 41 mm
  • Thickness: 4.3 mm
  • Material: Yellow Gold
  • Dial Colour: Green Dial
  • Calibre: 910P
  • Power Reserve: 48 Hours
  • Water Resistance: 2 Bar (20 metres, 65 feet )
  • Price: USD $41,300

The Altiplano 910P Khaki Green arrived alongside Piaget’s new tourbillon release, giving the maison a second ultra-thin highlight to showcase this season. While its silhouette remains the same from its original 2017 model, the watch now appears in a form collectors have been quietly waiting for — yellow gold. At 41 mm in diameter and just 4.3 mm thick, it maintains the proportions that made the first 910P such a technical talking point, but the shift into Piaget’s signature alloy instantly changes its character. For a brand so deeply associated with the beauty of yellow gold through its jewellery heritage, seeing this metal finally wrapped around a 910P feels long overdue and completely natural.

What really elevates this edition is Piaget’s playful use of colour and contrast. The rich khaki green dial harmonizes beautifully with the warmth of the gold case, while hints of slate and green from the peripheral rotor architecture add depth without overwhelming the design. The familiar layout of the calibre 910P remains prominently displayed, acting as both the engine and the visual centrepiece. The bridges and components are arranged like a mechanical collage, emphasizing that the 910P isn’t just thin for the sake of it — it’s a testament to Piaget’s skill in blending engineering with elegance in a way few others can.

Despite the complexity on display, the watch wears with remarkable subtlety. The slender case, understated movement layout, and beautifully balanced colour palette come together to create a piece that feels luxurious without leaning into excess. And while the spotlight may shine brightest on the Khaki Green Tourbillon, the 910P stands confidently alongside it as a more traditional yet equally compelling expression of Piaget’s ultra-thin mastery. Priced at USD $41,300, it offers a sophisticated entry point into Piaget’s world of slim mechanical artistry.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon & Altiplano 910P Khaki Green | Image: Piaget

Piaget’s Ultra-Thin Mastery

Piaget’s newest ultra-thin watches may not aim to reinvent design language, but they reinforce something even more meaningful — the maison’s long-standing obsession with pushing slim mechanical watchmaking further than anyone believed possible. This pursuit traces back to Piaget’s pioneering 9P movement introduced in 1957, a calibre that set a new benchmark for thinness in mechanical watches. It was followed just a few years later by the acclaimed 12P in 1960, the world’s thinnest automatic movement at that time. These early milestones weren’t merely technical achievements; they defined Piaget’s identity and paved the way for the ultra-thin philosophy the brand continues to uphold today.

That heritage eventually led to modern icons like the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which famously won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020 — one of the highest honours in watchmaking. Its tourbillon evolution, revealed in 2024, marked another step in Piaget’s ongoing pursuit of innovation, demonstrating that the brand isn’t content to rest on previous achievements. Instead, each new release reminds us that Piaget approaches ultra-thin watchmaking not as a passing trend, but as a craft to be perfected, refined, and continually reimagined.

Piaget
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