Ask many modern Oris enthusiasts to name the watch that mattered most to the company, and they may point towards the Big Crown, the Aquis or one of its modern Calibre 400 models. Far fewer would mention the Oris Star, yet this modest watch represents one of the most important moments in the Hölstein manufacturer’s history, marking the beginning of an era in which the company could finally pursue new mechanical technology on its own terms.
At the centre of that story is the Swiss lever escapement, a mechanism that became the standard foundation for quality mechanical watch movements because it offered greater accuracy and durability than the simpler pin-lever, or Roskopf, alternative. However, Oris was prevented from adopting it by the Swiss Watch Statute, introduced through a federal decree on 12 March 1934 as part of an effort to stabilize and protect the watch industry during the Great Depression. Although the rules were designed to control damaging competition, their permit system eventually restricted innovation and left manufacturers such as Oris tied to technologies they were already using.
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In 1956, Oris hired young lawyer Dr Rolf Portmann to challenge those restrictions, beginning a campaign that lasted almost a decade before he succeeded in 1965. With its freedom restored, Oris introduced its first lever-escapement watch the following year and named it the Star, creating a symbol of the company’s hard-won independence and technological progress.
Now, 60 years later, the Star Edition has returned at Watches and Wonders 2026, giving an often-overlooked chapter of Oris history its proper place in the spotlight while inviting us to take a closer look at the watch that helped change everything.
Dr Rolf Portmann’s connection to Oris began long before he joined the company, as his father had already worked for the watchmaker in their hometown of Hölstein. After training as a lawyer, Portmann returned home and was hired by Oris in 1956 to take on the difficult task of challenging the Swiss Watch Statute. What followed was almost a decade of lobbying and legal work aimed at removing the restrictions that prevented Oris from adopting the more accurate Swiss lever escapement. His efforts finally succeeded in 1965, allowing the company to develop watches without seeking permission from the industry’s powerful cartel-like system.
The victory did far more than inspire the original Oris Star one year later, as Portmann remained with the company and took on responsibilities across manufacturing, property and human resources before eventually helping to shape its modern future. In 1982, he joined Ulrich W. Herzog in a management buyout that restored Oris as an independent watchmaker, and he remains the company’s Honorary Chairman. The revived Star Edition therefore celebrates more than the return of a 1960s design; it honours the man whose persistence gave Oris the freedom to innovate and later helped secure its independence.
ather than modernizing the original Star beyond recognition, Oris has remained remarkably faithful to the watch that appeared in 1966. The multi-piece stainless-steel case measures 35mm across, 11.1mm thick and 41.5mm from lug to lug, closely matching the dimensions of the vintage model known to collectors as the “Star Twen.” Its barrel-shaped profile and integrated lugs capture the more adventurous side of 1960s design, when watchmakers were beginning to move beyond traditional round cases.
The case combines a pronounced vertical satin-brushed surface with broad polished bevels that emphasize its sweeping shape, while a slim polished bezel frames the dial without adding unnecessary visual weight. Oris has also chosen a domed Plexiglass crystal instead of modern sapphire, giving the watch the warmth and gentle distortion associated with vintage acrylic. A screwed caseback carrying the historic Oris Shield engraving and 50 metres of water resistance provide a welcome degree of modern practicality.
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Under the crystal is a silver-colored dial that keeps the simple style of the original. A thin crosshair splits the surface, while double-baton hour markers are joined by wider marks at the main positions, each with a dark center. The polished, square-tipped hands match this geometric style, with Super-LumiNova added to the hands and hour markers to make them easier to see in the dark.
A framed trapezoidal date window at 3 o’clock introduces another period-correct detail, while the “Star,” “Automatic” and “26 Jewels” inscriptions reinforce the watch’s mid-century character. Finished with a slim black leather strap and stainless-steel pin buckle, the Star Edition feels less like a loose interpretation and more like the original watch brought forward with just enough refinement to suit modern everyday wear.
Powering the modern Star Edition is the automatic Oris Calibre 733-1, which brings present-day reliability to a watch whose identity was originally built around the arrival of the Swiss lever escapement. Measuring 25.6mm in diameter, the movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides approximately 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound.
Alongside the central hours, minutes and seconds, Calibre 733-1 drives the instantaneous date display and includes a date corrector, fine-timing device and stop-seconds function for more accurate setting. Oris keeps the movement hidden behind the solid screwed caseback and its historic Shield engraving, preserving the appearance of the 1966 model while allowing the mechanics underneath to meet the expectations of a dependable modern watch.
The Oris Star Edition went on sale in May 2026, priced at USD $2,300 through Oris boutiques, the brand’s online store, and authorized retailers. It is not a limited edition with numbers, so more collectors can own the 60th-anniversary revival without having to compete for a limited number. At that price, the Star offers more than small size and authentic vintage style, carrying a real piece of Oris history in a watch made to be worn, not just kept in a collection.
- Brand: Oris
- Model: Star Edition
- Reference: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
- Diameter: 35 mm
- Thickness: 11.1 mm
- Material: Multi-piece stainless steel case
- Dial: Silver-Toned
- Calibre: Oris Calibre 733
- Power Reserve: 41 Hours
- Water-Resistance: 5 Bar (50 metres, 165 feet)
- Price: USD $2,300
