Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
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Oris Celebrates 60 Years of Watchmaking Freedom With the New Star Edition

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Ask many modern Oris enthusiasts to name the watch that mattered most to the company, and they may point towards the Big Crown, the Aquis or one of its modern Calibre 400 models. Far fewer would mention the Oris Star, yet this modest watch represents one of the most important moments in the Hölstein manufacturer’s history, marking the beginning of an era in which the company could finally pursue new mechanical technology on its own terms.

At the centre of that story is the Swiss lever escapement, a mechanism that became the standard foundation for quality mechanical watch movements because it offered greater accuracy and durability than the simpler pin-lever, or Roskopf, alternative. However, Oris was prevented from adopting it by the Swiss Watch Statute, introduced through a federal decree on 12 March 1934 as part of an effort to stabilize and protect the watch industry during the Great Depression. Although the rules were designed to control damaging competition, their permit system eventually restricted innovation and left manufacturers such as Oris tied to technologies they were already using.

In 1956, Oris hired young lawyer Dr Rolf Portmann to challenge those restrictions, beginning a campaign that lasted almost a decade before he succeeded in 1965. With its freedom restored, Oris introduced its first lever-escapement watch the following year and named it the Star, creating a symbol of the company’s hard-won independence and technological progress.

Now, 60 years later, the Star Edition has returned at Watches and Wonders 2026, giving an often-overlooked chapter of Oris history its proper place in the spotlight while inviting us to take a closer look at the watch that helped change everything.

Dr. Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog, key figures in Oris' history, staged a management buyout in 1982 to secure the brand's independence
Ulrich W. Herzog (left) and Dr. Rolf Portmann (right), whose 1982 management buyout restored Oris as an independent watchmaker. | Image: Oris

The Lawyer Who Gave Oris Its Freedom

Dr Rolf Portmann’s connection to Oris began long before he joined the company, as his father had already worked for the watchmaker in their hometown of Hölstein. After training as a lawyer, Portmann returned home and was hired by Oris in 1956 to take on the difficult task of challenging the Swiss Watch Statute. What followed was almost a decade of lobbying and legal work aimed at removing the restrictions that prevented Oris from adopting the more accurate Swiss lever escapement. His efforts finally succeeded in 1965, allowing the company to develop watches without seeking permission from the industry’s powerful cartel-like system.

The victory did far more than inspire the original Oris Star one year later, as Portmann remained with the company and took on responsibilities across manufacturing, property and human resources before eventually helping to shape its modern future. In 1982, he joined Ulrich W. Herzog in a management buyout that restored Oris as an independent watchmaker, and he remains the company’s Honorary Chairman. The revived Star Edition therefore celebrates more than the return of a 1960s design; it honours the man whose persistence gave Oris the freedom to innovate and later helped secure its independence.

Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Oris Star Edition | Image: Oris

The Star of 1966 Shines Again

ather than modernizing the original Star beyond recognition, Oris has remained remarkably faithful to the watch that appeared in 1966. The multi-piece stainless-steel case measures 35mm across, 11.1mm thick and 41.5mm from lug to lug, closely matching the dimensions of the vintage model known to collectors as the “Star Twen.” Its barrel-shaped profile and integrated lugs capture the more adventurous side of 1960s design, when watchmakers were beginning to move beyond traditional round cases.

The case combines a pronounced vertical satin-brushed surface with broad polished bevels that emphasize its sweeping shape, while a slim polished bezel frames the dial without adding unnecessary visual weight. Oris has also chosen a domed Plexiglass crystal instead of modern sapphire, giving the watch the warmth and gentle distortion associated with vintage acrylic. A screwed caseback carrying the historic Oris Shield engraving and 50 metres of water resistance provide a welcome degree of modern practicality.

Under the crystal is a silver-colored dial that keeps the simple style of the original. A thin crosshair splits the surface, while double-baton hour markers are joined by wider marks at the main positions, each with a dark center. The polished, square-tipped hands match this geometric style, with Super-LumiNova added to the hands and hour markers to make them easier to see in the dark.

A framed trapezoidal date window at 3 o’clock introduces another period-correct detail, while the “Star,” “Automatic” and “26 Jewels” inscriptions reinforce the watch’s mid-century character. Finished with a slim black leather strap and stainless-steel pin buckle, the Star Edition feels less like a loose interpretation and more like the original watch brought forward with just enough refinement to suit modern everyday wear.

Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Oris Star Edition | Image: Oris
Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Oris Star Edition | Image: Oris

Calibre 733 Keeps the Star Shining

Powering the modern Star Edition is the automatic Oris Calibre 733-1, which brings present-day reliability to a watch whose identity was originally built around the arrival of the Swiss lever escapement. Measuring 25.6mm in diameter, the movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides approximately 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound.

Alongside the central hours, minutes and seconds, Calibre 733-1 drives the instantaneous date display and includes a date corrector, fine-timing device and stop-seconds function for more accurate setting. Oris keeps the movement hidden behind the solid screwed caseback and its historic Shield engraving, preserving the appearance of the 1966 model while allowing the mechanics underneath to meet the expectations of a dependable modern watch.

Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Oris Star Edition | Image: Oris

Reaching for the Star in May 2026

The Oris Star Edition went on sale in May 2026, priced at USD $2,300 through Oris boutiques, the brand’s online store, and authorized retailers. It is not a limited edition with numbers, so more collectors can own the 60th-anniversary revival without having to compete for a limited number. At that price, the Star offers more than small size and authentic vintage style, carrying a real piece of Oris history in a watch made to be worn, not just kept in a collection.

Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
Oris Star Edition Ref: 01 733 7813 4151-Set | Image: Oris
  • Brand: Oris
  • Model: Star Edition
  • Reference: 01 733 7813 4151-Set
  • Diameter: 35 mm
  • Thickness: 11.1 mm
  • Material: Multi-piece stainless steel case
  • Dial: Silver-Toned
  • Calibre: Oris Calibre 733
  • Power Reserve: 41 Hours
  • Water-Resistance: 5 Bar (50 metres, 165 feet)
  • Price: USD $2,300
Oris Star Edition | Image: Oris

Watches & WondersOris
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Bvlgari Introduces a New 37mm Octo Finissimo With a New Movement at Watches and Wonders 2026

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Our team of editors and experts thoughtfully chooses each product. If you decide to buy through one of our links, we may earn a commission. Learn more. Want to know how we test products? Click here for more details.

For more than a decade, Bvlgari has treated the millimetre like its greatest rival. Every fraction shaved from the Octo Finissimo has pushed mechanical watchmaking a little further, and in 2025, that obsession reached a new high with the 1.85mm Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon — the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon and one of the most extraordinary watches the Roman maison has ever created.

So, where exactly do you go after making watchmaking history? For Bvlgari, that answer lies in chasing another world record. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the Italian luxury house is looking at the Octo Finissimo from a different angle, turning its attention to proportions, comfort and the art of doing things “A Regola D’arte” — with precision, skill and an unmistakably Italian sense of style.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm | Bvlgari

The headline is a new 37mm Octo Finissimo collection, with four slimmer, more compact watches joining the family. The unmistakable octagonal architecture remains, but beneath the sharp, Roman-inspired lines lies a newly developed movement designed for smaller proportions. And because this is Bvlgari, the collection also makes room for a minute repeater that brings a touch of mechanical music into the mix.

Bvlgari has also revisited last year’s record-breaking Ultra Tourbillon, giving it a precious platinum makeover that pairs its impossibly thin construction with brilliant blue details and an even more exclusive production run. From a smaller Octo Finissimo to one of its most extravagant creations yet. Here’s everything Bvlgari brought to Watches and Wonders 2026.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Ref. 104344 and Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Ref.104313
The New Ultra Tourbillon in platinum (Left), and last year’s Ultra Tourbillon in titanium (Right). | Image: Bvlgari

Etereo in Platinum

Winning the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève last year, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon returns for 2026 in a considerably more extravagant form. Bvlgari has taken one of its greatest modern watchmaking achievements and firmly moved it into precious-metal territory, giving the record holder a richer, more luxurious personality without altering the architecture that made it so remarkable in the first place.

Across the skeletonized display, brilliant blue tones lend new energy to the exposed mechanics, while an original galvanic treatment on the dedicated mainplate adds further depth. A steel ratchet wheel remains proudly visible, and the integrated bracelet alternates between satin-brushed and polished surfaces, allowing the platinum to play with light along the Octo Finissimo’s sharp geometric lines.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Engineering Mechanics
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Engineering Mechanics | Image: Bvlgari

As with last year’s model, the centre houses the hand-wound BVF 900 flying tourbillon calibre, measuring an almost unbelievable 1.55 mm thick. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the movement delivers a 42-hour power reserve and makes much of its mechanical construction part of the watch’s visual identity. When the entire watch is only 1.85 mm thick, seeing the movement laid out this openly makes the engineering even harder to ignore.

The original titanium version was all about proving what Bvlgari could achieve at the very edge of ultra-thin watchmaking. This platinum edition feels more like a celebration of that achievement. It doesn’t need another record or a completely new mechanical trick to make its point; precious metal, brilliant blue and the unmistakable Octo Finissimo architecture are more than enough to give one of Bvlgari’s most technically impressive watches an entirely new character, making it truly unique and elegant.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Ref. 104120
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm 18 KT Yellow Gold | Image: Bvlgari
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Titanium Ref. 104089
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Titanium | Image: Bvlgari

The Italian Art of Effortless Elegance

Few watches make complicated engineering look quite as effortless as the Octo Finissimo. That sense of sprezzatura, an Italian word meaning “studied nonchalance” or the art of making style and elegance appear effortless, has long been part of the collection’s character. From its sharp Roman-inspired geometry to its ultra-thin proportions, the Octo Finissimo wears its technical complexity lightly. For 2026, Bvlgari carries that philosophy into a more compact 37mm form, bringing greater refinement and comfort to the wrist without losing the architectural presence that made the collection so recognisable.

Four watches make up the new 37mm family, each bringing its own personality to the Octo Finissimo line. Three are powered by Bvlgari’s newly developed BVF 100 automatic calibre and arrive in sandblasted titanium, satin-polished titanium and satin-polished yellow gold. The fourth keeps the sandblasted titanium construction but takes a more complicated route with a manually wound minute repeater.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Ref. 104120
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm 18 KT Yellow Gold | Image: Bvlgari

The real story, however, sits inside the first three watches. Developed and validated over three years at Bvlgari’s Swiss workshop, the BVF 100 uses a highly efficient micro-rotor to wind a high-energy barrel within a remarkably compact architecture. The new calibre measures just 31mm in diameter and 2.35mm thick, dimensions specifically developed around the smaller Octo Finissimo case.

Interestingly, the BVF 100 is actually 0.12mm thicker than the movement found inside the 40mm Octo Finissimo. Yet Bvlgari has managed to reduce its overall volume by 20 per cent while still delivering an impressive 72-hour power reserve. Three full days from a movement this compact is no small achievement, especially when every fraction of a millimetre matters.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Engineering Mechanics
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Engineering Mechanics | Image: Bvlgari

The smaller architecture also makes a noticeable difference on the wrist. The assembled watch weighs just 65 grams, giving the 37mm Octo Finissimo an incredibly light and comfortable presence for everyday wear. Bvlgari has paid just as much attention to the finer details, from the redesigned profile of the octagonal screws to the radiating Côtes de Genève across the bridges and mainplate — a more demanding motif than traditional straight Geneva stripes.

And then the Octo Finissimo decides to sing. The 37mm Minute Repeater is powered by Bvlgari’s in-house BVL 362 hand-wound calibre and housed in sandblasted titanium, a material chosen not only for its lightness but also for its acoustic qualities. The two-hammer mechanism chimes the time from within the ultra-thin case, bringing a little mechanical theatre to a collection that has never been particularly interested in taking the easy route.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Titanium Ref. 104089
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm | Image: Bvlgari

All Roads Lead to Rome

With the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum and the new 37mm collection, Bvlgari has shown two very different sides of the same watchmaking philosophy. One takes ultra-thin engineering and dresses it in precious platinum, while the other looks towards smaller proportions, everyday comfort and a brand-new movement built for what comes next.

What we particularly like is that Bvlgari hasn’t lost sight of what made the Octo Finissimo special in the first place. Roman architecture, sharp geometry, and almost impossibly thinness are all still there, but the collection continues to evolve rather than simply repeat itself. Add a little ‘Sprezzatura’ to the mix, and Bvlgari’s road ahead looks rather elegant indeed.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 mm Titanium Ref. 104089
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo 37 & 40 mm | Image: Bvlgari
Watches & WondersBvlgari
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